PCT SECTION HIKE | DAY 11-13 Rosalie Lake to Red’s + Zero + Mammoth to Purple Lake
Miles Hiked: 8.9 miles / - / 13.7 miles
Elevation: 827' / - / 3288’ ascent | 2454’ / - / 1078’ ft descent
Town day! Just like Shadow Lake switchbacks are my least favorite uphill, I've never been a fan of the section between Rosalie and Red’s. Part of it is the blowdowns and part is because it is hot and dry around Devil’s Postpile.
I woke up early and booked it downhill. Burger and a Coca-Cola, that is all that was on my mind. I took the shortcut past the base of Devil’s Postpile like I did last year and got to Red’s before lunch. Since I wasn't spending the night, I had no tent to set up. I set my bag aside, paid for a shower and laundry, and then ordered lunch. I met a few new faces, including a mother and daughter that were hiking south. Later that day, I spotted Julia and Eldon, who had hiked in from Lake Ediza. We talked about our experiences on the trail over the last few days and plans for the next part of trail. They said Shannon had already been at Red’s and was moving along down the trail.
Red’s was packed with day hikers today. I don't remember it being near as busy the last two years. I caught the last shuttle to the Mammoth Lodge, then waited for the shuttle to town to arrive. I talked with a northbound hiker who was staying in town as well. His family lives in the same small Iowa college town that I grew up in. While waiting for the town trolley, I met Medicine Man from the PCT Facebook pages—man, do I love hiker towns and the people you meet.
I made it to the Shiloh Inn and started unpacking in order to go through resupply. I picked up a few things at Grocery Outlet next door and then started to look for places to eat. Unfortunately, there is no Doordash or Uber Eats, and the last thing I wanted to do was go out for dinner. I found a local pizza place that had a delivery service. The driver arrived but had the wrong order. The correct order finally came 20-30 minutes later. Dinner finished, I dumped Epsom salt in the bath and relaxed.
The next morning I did some errands before checking out. I got new shoes at Mammoth Mountaineering, picked up some other foods at Vons, and got a box ready to send home. After checking out of the hotel, I went over to Kitterage Sports and got a new sleeping pad. I love the NEMO Tensor for comfort, but for the second year in a row, my (new right before the trip) pad was deflating about halfway by 0100. It wouldn't completely deflate, but enough that I was on the hard ground and would need to get up and re-inflate it. I ended up getting a Big Agnes that is 25” — no more arms falling off the pad! I can't wait to try it out. It is heavier by at least 5-6 ounces and much larger when packed, but it will be worth it for comfort. A good night’s sleep on the trail is just as important as foot care.
After sending a box home with my old shoes and sleeping pad, I made the trip back to Red’s Meadow. There was a huge group of hikers today. Food, drinks, and relaxation was the only plan for the rest of the day. I ended up spending the rest of the day talking with a large group of northbound hikers, about a dozen of them. Stories from the trail, and a bonfire to end the night. We went through nearly a half dozen bundles of wood, while drinking and talking around the fire at the backpackers camp. It was a late night, but great company. That is a big part of this trail and many other long trails: the people.
Wake up. Pack. Say hello to the bear on the trail between camp and the cafe/store. Wait in line for breakfast. It was a late start, but well worth it for a good breakfast of French toast. The goal today was either Purple Lake or Lake Virginia. As much as I wanted to make it to Lake Virginia, I knew that it was unlikely, more due to the ascent than the mileage.
The first part of the hike is through a mix of new growth and old burn area. Exposed and warm from the morning sun. Then into the forest, slowly working your way up to the side of the mountains, views for miles of neighboring mountains. Storm clouds starting to form across the sky...things are starting to look a lot like my hike last year. I saw few people—a group of four guys and another solo female hiker, Liz Thomas ‘Snorkel.’ At Deer Creek, it's time to fill up for the “longer” water carry.
Next up, Duck Lake Outlet. It was getting later in the afternoon, but it was a great chance to stop and soak my feet. The climb over to Purple Lake is short but steep. I made my way around the lake, past the outlet, and started the climb up to Lake Virginia. Then it started to rain. I was tired and sore, unsure if I wanted to push any further. I found a nice campsite a couple of switchbacks up and decided that was enough for the day.
Tomorrow: Goodale Pass and making it as close as possible to VVR. The goal is to only have 4-5 miles to hike the next day for an early day into VVR.