PCT 2023 | DAYS 20-24 HWY 10 OASIS TO BIG BEAR LAKE
DAY 20
Miles Hiked: 8.9 miles
We planned a shorter day to meet the rest of the tramily at Whitewater Preserve. They had planned to camp before Hwy 10 (ended up staying at Nitsy’s). The difference in this section compared to the same time last year is drastic (see the last two pictures for comparison). The strong winds continued today, helping to cool us off. I decided to carry out nearly 3lbs of Cuties (tangerines) to hand out as trail magic for other hikers since we were ending at Whitewater. So worth it. We met TWO new trail family members: Heather and Bad Ass (who I would end up hiking with until KMS). I knew that there was another person from Ladie of the JMT (a Facebook group) hiking this year and she had started not long before me. It was Bad Ass! Once we got to Whitewater, we had our first “stronger” water crossing to get to the camping area at Whitewater Preserve. Karate Kid jumped in and helped people across. There were less campers this year (both hikers and families). There was a large youth group struggling against the winds—they had at least two large tents break and collapse. All had been abandoned by morning
DAY 21
Miles Hiked: 10.1 miles
We left Whitewater Preserve and entered the Mission Creek Maze of 28+ water crossings, had a late lunch before the first Mission Creek crossing, and stopped a little short when we found a great beach area to camp at.
Mission Creek was much easier to follow this year. Nothing had changed, but the terrain was familiar and FarOut helped yet again.
Note: Mission Creek was severely damaged by Hurricane Hilary in 2023. While it was a bit of a challenge before this, it is now even more challenging. Many hikers bypassed this section either by hiking an alternate route (I believe along a ridge) or getting a ride to Big Bear.
DAY 22
Miles Hiked: 11.4 miles
- A day of large ascents to finish the last few Mission Creek crossings and make it to Mission Junction Camp, right before the snow
- Lots of horned toads
- Gritty, Carsten, and Bobcat caught up to us while we ate lunch at the last Mission Creek crossing
- The climb felt much easier this year
- We filled up with some water at the burn area, to avoid having to fill up after dark at camp
- ICE cold water from snow melt
- Snow surrounded the camp, but there were over a dozen dry camping spots
- Cold night! Probably the coldest on trail, down to the mid 20s
DAY 23
Miles Hiked: 8.2 miles
This day was really hard for me and brought back a lot of mental stress from my fall last year that I didn’t realize I had. It is honestly hard for me to write this, as those feelings come flooding back.
There are few pictures from today (zero from the “bad” sections) and no pictures from my Sony. The snow section just after mile 243.5 to the dirt road at 244.7 was mentally difficult. Especially after injuring my ankle sliding on snow last year on trail in Oregon. Most of the section was okay, but there were a few small spots that had me literally frozen in fear. I could not move. Not one step. All the terrifying emotions from last year came flooding back. Each step felt like it took an eternity. Making sure my ice axe was solidly placed at my right side and my trekking pole at my left. I couldn’t move. My eyes started to fill with tears. All I wanted was for the fear to stop and for me to escape the situation. I didn’t want to be here. I was done. I wanted to scream. I wanted to cry, but I couldn’t. There was no escaping. No turning around. Just moving forward.
I had to laugh, though, because every so often a SOBO hiker would be walking towards us: no spikes, looking down at their phone, walking along the ridge like it was an empty sidewalk.
Woodsy slid 6-8 feet without an ice axe, lodging himself on a boulder. Getting to that dirt road there was a huge sense of relief. Knowing the emotions this brought on will likely mean more moving around to avoid snowier sections. I already plan on skipping the Sierra, since I have already hiked it a couple times. There was still more snow after the dry dirt road, none of it challenging. Then we reached the end, two glissades, and the fears started to return. I was hiking in front the whole time, but I could not go down. Same situation as Devils Peak descent (mm 1,798.4), but this time with a trail family. After a little nagging, Woodsy went first, giving me a little confidence, but still paralyzed with fear internally.
First glissade, done. Not bad aside from a frozen crotch and butt.
Second glissade was not terrible, but went a little quicker than the first, as the snow was softer here. And then…
…the back my right foot dug in just a little too much, lurching me forward. I corrected myself, but as soon as I stood I felt the pain of my previous injury along the peronial tendon.
All I could think was, “Not f*cking now. I am not done.” I have had zero thoughts of ending my hike this year. It is an entirely different experience. This cannot happen.
We made it to Coon Creek Cabin much later than expected, moving at no more than 1/2 mile an hour on the snow. We dried out our socks, shoes, and shorts while we ate a late lunch and melted snow in our CNOC bags on top of the bear boxes. I taped my ankle before Woodsy and I hiked on, eager to get just a couple more miles in. At the top of the climb, I was done. We hoped to get 3 more miles in (about 5 from Coon Creek) in order to catch up to Radar, but I was physically and mentally done.
DAY 24
Miles Hiked: 17.9 miles
What do you do the day after re-injuring your ankle? Hike 18 miles of course, because…
TOWN DAY
I was originally going to stop short of Big Bear, but Woodsy was eager to get to town so, why not. We made our way down the remaining snow before Onyx Summit, and passed the former zoo (now private property with dogs and mules). A quick break at Onyx Summit to refill water and book an AirBnB, and then a late long lunch at Arrastre Camp. Too long for the miles remaining.
I kicked into gear at this point. I just wanted to get to town, not socialize. At this rate, it would be sunset when we arrived. 2.5 mph to the last water source. Once Woodsy arrived at the water, I was on the move again. Uphill, then a little more, some easy miles, and then finally saw and heard the wild donkeys. That last mile or so always seems to take forever, especially when it is uphill. We finally make it to the trailhead and start hitching, hoping to get a ride before dark. After about a half hour, just as the sun was starting to set, we got a ride from Liz and Dave. We got settled into the AirBnB — Radar + AJ and Tom were already there. Woodsy and I went out to Fire Rock for some burgers and beer.
